Showing posts with label apparel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label apparel. Show all posts

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Gap Inc., G4 and the Pink Panther

And here it is. The new Sustainability Report 2011-2012 from Gap Inc.  This report has been written with reference to the spanking new G4 guidelines, and contains a G4 Index, although no "In Accordance" Level has been declared.  The In Accordance level is not so important in the final analysis. What is most important is the way the spirit of G4 is reflected in the structure of the report. As I have may have mentioned somewhere, material issues in a G4 report should jump out at you from the page or the touch-screen. In G4, material issues should be:

accessible
clear
conspicuous
discernible 
distinct
evident
glaring
indisputable
noticeable
  overt
palpable
pronounced
recognizable
self-evident
straightforward
undeniable
unmistakable
visible
barefaced
bright
clear as a bell
conclusive
distinguishable
explicit
exposed
in evidence
lucid
manifest
observable
open
patent
perceivable
perceptible
plain
precise
prominent
public
self-explanatory
standing out
transparent
unconcealed
undisguised
unsubtle

Yes, material issues in G4 should be all of the above.
Ok, so what if I had a little help from thesaurus.com.

The new Gap Inc. report merits our attention for two reasons:

First, it's Gap Inc. -  I have admired both Gap Inc.'s performance and its reporting over the years.

Second, it includes a G4 Content Index. To me, that means it's aspiring to get into the next generation sustainability reporting arena. I think this may also be the first report published by a company anywhere that includes a G4 Content Index.

One of the nice things about Gap's reporting is the sense of authenticity it conveys. The report tells you what's going on, no frills, no politically correct, no hiding behind the label. From the CEO letter which describes the report as "a candid, open assessment of our progress as a company and as a collaborative partner to address the complex issues of operating a global business in a responsible, ethical way" to the complexities of the human rights operating context of outsourced production to the difficulties of achieving environmental efficiencies in 3,000 stores around the world, Gap Inc. tells it like it is.
  
Gap's report takes us through 5 core sections:
  • Company
  • Human Rights
  • Environment
  • Employees
  • Community
In each section, Gap Inc. works systematically through the key issues, providing a good deal of context and background to help us understand the issues, how they affect Gap Inc.'s business, and what Gap is doing about them. Want to know about fire safety in Bangladesh? Gap covers it. Want to know how many kids around the world are forced to work against their free will? Go look at the Gap Inc. 2012 report. Need a data-point on what percent of garment workers are women, globally? Gap Inc. provides. Interested in strikes in the Cambodian garment industry? Get the low-down from the Gap Inc. report. Seek a definition of human trafficking? It's there. In short, a lot of Gap's report is context, which is good and useful. Sometimes it's even more context than report, which is less useful.

Gap Inc.'s performance in key areas has been strong: employee volunteering and corporate community contributions have increased each year since 2008. Total carbon emissions have decreased each year for the past three years. So has U.S. energy consumption. The percentage of red-rated factories, that is, those which must put in place corrective action after Gap Inc.'s audits, has reduced each year for the past four years. Gap completed 1,148 audits in 2012. Gap has been driving environmental efficiencies through the supply chain through provision of Green Manufacturing Workshops for key vendors. Overall, Gap Inc.'s report attests to ongoing commitment and good performance. The name of Gap Inc. has become synonymous with championing of human rights in the supply chain and this report continues to testify to Gap Inc.'s leadership in this area.

As a report, and as a report which was apparently written in the spirit, if not the letter, of the G4 framework, however, Gap Inc.'s delivery is disappointing this time around. This is a two year report and while one might expect that much has changed, there is inconsistency between reports. For example, two years ago, there was an ECO focus on three core issue areas:


In the 2012 report, water conservation gets a page of narrative, but no data and water conservation is not listed as a material issue. In 2010, seven environmental goals were reported with targets for 2012-2015. In 2012, two of these are reported as completed, one has changed and four have slipped off the map. Instead, one updated and three new goals for 2015-2020 have been developed. Tracking Gap's performance against stated goals in the environmental area needs Rubik-cube like skills.

Similarly, I find a disconnect between goals and narrative and data. In the community goals, for example, Gap Inc. reported on progress of a previously stated goal: "Strive to increase the annual value of employee-driven contributions of time, money and talent to the community", noting this has been achieved. However, a chart shows that total contributions and volunteerism have decreased in the past two years. So, the striving was done and the target was ticked? Who cares about striving?

This apparent disconnect in Gap's presentation of its strategy and performance over time erodes credibility. It would be more interesting to see the overall strategy, with clear multi-year goals, all in one place, for tracking and reporting in a consistent way each year. Even if the Sustainability Report is biennial, this should not be an excuse for  things dropping off the edge in the interim year.

This dissonance continues through to the way in which Gap Inc. describes its materiality process. Transparently, Gap Inc describes the way it selected material issues and the criteria for doing so. Generously, Gap Inc. shows us an empty materiality matrix. For our general education and edification.


This would be fantastic if the issues that Gap Inc. had identified as material were shown in this three-band matrix. The issues are not separately listed, so the reader needs to do some detective work in order to understand what's material and what's not. Frankly, G4 or otherwise, I do wonder about the sense of including all the detail about materiality process and then not actually stating the issues and where they fit. I agree that prioritizing issues within the high, medium and low materiality bands is redundant, but if the work has been done to place issues in one of the three boxes, and deliberately not disclosed, we the readers become more interested in why not, than in what the issues actually are. It diverts our attention from the substantive to the technical aspects of reporting.

However, as I usually take a detective-type approach when reviewing reports (just call me Pink Panther) I understand that the Gap Inc. report content list serves as the material issues list, and the issues for which material Aspects are included in the G4 Content Index are the ones that fall into the high and/or medium materiality box. Well, that's how I understand it anyway. Crystal clear, right? Working on this premise, I see that Gap Inc. has identified 15 material Aspects (out of a possible 46) and reported on 21 indicators out of a possible 91 indicators.



 The Material Aspects are:
 

 
Water conservation, as mentioned above, earns a place in the report content list and some narrative, but not identification as a highly material Aspect. Given the amount of water used in cotton-production, and what Gap Inc. refers to as freshwater risk in the report narrative, I find it surprising that water did not merit inclusion as one of the top material issues.

The G4 Content Index itself is online, and is nicely hyperlinked to different parts of the online report. However, the Index is not quite what it is supposed to be.  For example, several disclosures refer to Gap Inc.'s annual reports for 2011 and 2012, or other documents, providing a general link to the webpages of these documents. This is not the GRI way.

G4 guidelines state quite specifically (Principles Manual, page 13) (my highlights):

"Information related to Standard Disclosures required by the ‘in accordance’ options may already be included in other reports prepared by the organization, such as its annual report to shareholders or other regulatory or voluntary reports. In these circumstances, the organization may elect to not repeat those disclosures in its sustainability report and instead add a reference to where the relevant information can be found. This presentation is acceptable as long as the reference is specific (for example, a general reference to the annual report to shareholders would not be acceptable, unless it includes the name of the section, table, etc.) and the information is publicly available and readily accessible. This is likely the case when the sustainability report is presented in electronic or web based format and links are provided to other electronic or web based reports."

There are some other examples of where the Content Index doesn't quite provide a route to an actual relevant disclosure as required by the corresponding reporting indicator.

Any report that proclaims any level of G4 adherence is bound to come under the microscope in the coming year. The G4 promise is focus, clarity, and materiality. It's next generation. It's leadership and reporting best practice. Clearly, the early adopters are going to be scrutinized. For better or for worse, Gap Inc. has put itself in that space and while this report does not claim to be "G4 In Accordance", it does include a G4 Content Index. It's the Index that hooked me.
 
I believe that this report doesn't do full justice to the fabulous work Gap Inc. has done and continues to do in the garment industry. If you asked me who are the best apparel players for sustainability in this sector, Gap Inc. would certainly be one of the top companies I would cite. I think this representative of the reporting challenges we all face. How do we present our sustainability risks and opportunities, and more importantly, impacts, in a clear, complete and balanced way, telling our story so that it reflects our organization's achievements, and remains within the constraints presented by the GRI Reporting framework?

Clearly, it's not that simple. Daniel Fibiger is Senior Manager of Strategy and Performance in Gap Inc.’s Social and Environmental Responsibility Department, and he expresses the challenge well in a post he wrote to introduce Gap Inc.'s 2011-2012 report: "... as the author of the report, the task of trying to summarize or highlight certain aspects of it is an unenviable one. Part of this might have to do with my background. I’ve been with the company for just over two years, and previously worked for several human rights NGOs, where I partnered with major apparel companies to address human rights issues in their supply chains. So when I try to think about what’s important, my answer is: all of it.....I also believe this is a work in progress. My hope is that our next report has more focused goals, provides more comprehensive data-driven insights, and more effectively conveys the impact we are having. If we do those things well, we’ll also be able to make it shorter, which will hopefully lead more people to read it. The work starts now on delivering that."

Gap Inc.'s report may not fit the G4 structure perfectly just yet, but the great progress and authenticity, right up to admission of the challenges of reporting, is evident in Gap's culture, and maybe that  counts for even more than an impeccable G4 Content Index.
 
 
 
elaine cohen, CSR consultant, winning (CRRA'12) Sustainability Reporter, HR Professional, Ice Cream Addict. Author of Understanding G4: The Concise Guide to Next Generation Sustainability Reporting AND Sustainability Reporting for SMEs: Competitive Advantage Through Transparency AND CSR for HR: A necessary partnership for advancing responsible business practices Contact me via www.twitter.com/elainecohen   or via my business website www.b-yond.biz   (Beyond Business Ltd, an inspired CSR consulting and Sustainability Reporting firm)  
 
 

Monday, August 9, 2010

19 textile sector companies sustainability profiles

Alongside the very worthwhile Sustainability Initiatives study benchmarking of 100 top-notch Companies and what they are doing to save the planet and us, Sustainable Life Media also released at the end of last month another fascinating report entitled: "Exporting Textiles: March to Sustainability. Preview of the coming decade: Textile Supply chain Sustainability Plans by Brands and Retailers." And as if that title weren't long enough, it has a subtitle: "Getting Manufacturers to Create Business Value through GHG (Energy), Water and Waste Conservation". The report was produced by cKinetics, and supported by SLM and Nitra. Anyway, now we know what it's all about, let's take a look.

We start off with a bit of context taken from the intro-page: "The 1990s was about the march towards manufacturing quality as the textile industry worldwide raced to adopt lean manufacturing and ISO driven quality practices. The 2000s were about ensuring ethical sourcing and labour practices. The coming decade is going to be about sustainability and optimally using natural resources to generate value in the textile supply chain. This report previews activities already underway that are harbingers of this coming movement." The report examines aspects of sustainability which concern the textile supply chain from the raw material (natural fiber or man made fiber) to the point that it is converted to finished product. The focus in the report is primarily on energy efficiency, greenhouse gas emissions, water and chemcial footprints and logistics. This is important as, the report says, the textile industry is the number one fresh water polluter on the planet, and is high in carbon intensity. In India, for example, 10% of the country's energy is consumed by the textile industry. 10% . Think about that for a minute................ OK. Stop. Move on.

The report provides detailed profiles of brands and their supply chain sustainability initiatives of 19 leading textile sector companies. Those that have programs under way are: Adidas, Carrefour, Gap Inc, H&M, Ikea, Levi Strauss, Marks and Spencer, Nike, Otto, Walmart, Continental Clothing. Those companies whose (supply chain environmentl) initiatives are at the planning stage are: Phillips-van-Heusen, Timberland, Inditex, Grupo Cortefiel, John Lewis Partnership,  Primark, Lindex and Tesco.  None of the Companies studies are in the unfortunate position of not having anything in progress or in the pipeline, which is a good thing, I suppose.

A few interesting initiatives: Gap are extending their environmental footprinting assessment right throughout the supply chain , including the mills that convert cotton into fabrics. This is great. Marks and Spencer are going big on Fairtrade cotton with a target of 20 million garments by 2012. Levi Strauss have extended Global Effluent Emissions guidelines to second tier suppliers. And more and more .....

The report profiles each of these manufacturers using the following parameters:

*  Overall approach and key initiatives
*  Aspects of supply chain sustainability the Company measures (eg energy, water, emissions etc)
*  Standards and Frameworks used (eg GRI, GHG PRotocol, Oeko-Tex or proprietary framework)
*  Sustainability intiatives relative to the Company's suppliers.

Some Company reports are highly detailed, with some, such as Primark and Lindex, did not fill a page.

(NB: The report does not analyse reported data or benchmark or rank Company performance; it describes what the Company is doing and which processes it has adopted). (Sorry, I know you all like rankings, but this report doesn't go there. Hah! Gotcha!)

In addition, the report summarizes the provisions of the key standards and certifications for sustainability (environmental) initiatives in the textile supply chain and ends up with some predictions. The report's key conclusion is that "evidence pointing to a new wave of sustainability is quite clear". The report predicts that (environmental) sustainability intiatives in the textile supply chain will be adopted by all major players, and will become a differentiating factor in supplier selection.

I might add a couple of predictions myself:

First, the word "traceability" will necessarily be on the lips of every manufacturer sourcing textiles and suppliers will need to be able to operate systems which give total supply chain transparency and accountability.

Second, manufacturers will need to change their own internal procedures. It will not be enough to require suppliers to be more environmentally friendly. Manufacturers will need to review the way they manage consumer demand and production planning which in turn affects the way suppliers can respond, and impacts the production, waste and logistics activities. Whether or not the 18 companies benchmarked will succumb to the pressures of slow fashion remains to be seen, but even if they continue fast fast fast fashion, they will have to start doing it a little differently to generate greater total supply chain effiiencies.

Third, as a result of all these brilliant supply chain efficiencies, manufacturers will pay their suppliers a fair wage and also share their supply chain savings with consumers, and we will all be able to afford a new wardrobe about six times a year. Oops. You don't believe that, do you ? Just kidding. :) Only 5 times a year.

The big advantage of this report is the ability to review 19 of the top players in the sector side by side and gain an overall  insight into what is driving environmental sustainability initatives in this sector. The textile sector is fascinating and contains many lessons for different industries. The challenges of environmental sustainability in the massively complex textile supply chains are incredible. This report is a useful addition to our body of knowledge and hopefully will serve to accelerate progress.

By the way, most of  the data provided in this report was sourced from Corporate Responsibility Reports. YEAH!  I told you CSR reports were good for something!


elaine cohen, CSR consultant, Sustainabilty Reporter, HR Professional, Ice Cream Addict. Contact me via www.twitter.com/elainecohen  on Twitter or via my business website www.b-yond.biz/en  (BeyondBusiness, an inspired CSR consulting and Sustainability Reporting firm)

Friday, June 12, 2009

Beyond Global Compact

Beyond is the new buzz. Yep. It's here to stay. Beyond now. Beyond today. Beyond signifies that infinite space of possibilities that create our collective sustainable future. (geez, did I overdose on Cherry Garcia or something? Doesn’t that sound pathetic?) Well let me explain…
I just returned from 3 days attending an ILO workshop and the Human Rights working Group meetings of the United Nations Global Compact in Istanbul. I will be blogging about this in more detail over the next week or so, so stay tuned. But my first of many is about the Beyond buzz. This is the new word to describe everything positive, innovative and sustainable.

Go Beyond

Allow me introduce you to Mas Holdings and the MAS Go Beyond program. This is the brainchild of the most charming and accomplished man, Mr Ravi Fernando, whom I had the privilege of meeting this week in Istanbul after our cyber acquaintance. Ravi was until recently the Director Corporate Branding & Strategic Sustainability at MAS Holdings Ltd. MAS Holdings is one of Sri Lanka’s largest apparel manufacturers, employing more than 45,000 people in 28 factories in several countries and annual revenues of US$700 million. 5 years ago, Ravi started out on a path of empowering the women of MAS to "Go Beyond". 80% of MAS employees are women. MAS are leading bra manufacturers. (It turns out that bras are pretty complicated to make. A bra has between 20 and 48 parts, including the cups, lining, bands, straps and hooks. No wonder they are so darn uncomfortable! Perhaps we should have burned them after all….). Anyhow, the MAS program is based on supporting career advancement, strengthening work-life balance and rewarding excellence. It has changed the lives of many women and empowered them to go beyond to "transcend hardship and adverse social conditions to achieve great heights". The program has been an unrivalled success, the subject of two INSEAD case studies (link here for abstract) . Ravi presented me with a wonderful book published by MAS Holdings, containing very moving stories of 95 women who have suceeded with program. The book is sold and proceeds go to the Go Beyond program. Here are some quotes from the Go Beyond women:
  • "Pushpa's mother died from complications at childbirth, and her life has been a struggle almost from day one. Tragically at just 13, she became a child bride, given in marriage so that she would no longer be a burden on her family…." Pushpa has also survived cancer of the throat. She is now a Line Leader at Mas Active.
  • "It chills the soul to imagine the despair that could drive a mother to abandon her baby, and it is almost incomprehensible that anyone could have left an infant at the foot of a rubbish dump, where baby Dhamnika was discovered by a passing stranger …." Dhamnika is now a Line Leader at Mas Slimtex.
  • "With her mother away working in the Middle East, it was Suweeja and her brothers who built their house. The children made the bricks themselves, carrying buckets of water from the village well.. " Suweeja is now an operator at Mas Leisureline


It's hard to do justice to this program in a short blog post, but it is breathtakingly awesome. (Link here to a paper published by IFC )

Beyond Monitoring Working Group
This is a working group led by BSR and participating companies in the UNGC network to review monitoring procedures in the supply chain.which, by and large, have not created the improvements that heavy investments in monitoring should merit. The group has come up with proposals which are currently being reviewed and finalized so I won't share them here, but watch this space, as there are some exceptionally sharp insights and process improvements to drive a more effective way of creating sustainable supply chains.

Beyond Essential
The term used by BLIHR in a publication introducing the Human Rights Matrix which is a web-based self-assessment tool, to support companies understanding human rights and manage human rights programs and performance. Beyond essential (see this for the essentials) is essentially (oops!) beyond compliance, a term we're all used to by now, right ?

Beyond Business
No surprise that this term was very popular indeed. Every time I introduced myself in each of the different sessions, and to a whole host of impressive people I met over the three days, I said Hello, I am elaine from Beyond Business. Beyond Business is the name of my consulting firm. Hah! A plug!

So which Beyond came first ? We won't be so presumptuous as to think that Beyond Business was the inspiration for all the other beyonds, but we are certainly very happy to be up there in the buzz.

Any yes, you've guessed it, B&J's next flavor is most definitely going to be…..
Beyond Chunky Monkey!

Stick around for more from the Global Compact meetings……

elaine cohen is the joint CEO of BeyondBusiness, a leading reporting and social-environmental consulting firm based in Israel. Visit our website at: www.b-yond.biz/en

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